Reflections on the Camino

28 days, 638 kilometers, 28 different beds, meals in at least 50 different restaurants, each of us getting at least one case of bed bug attack, at least two dozen flans for me, almost every kind of weather imaginable, more churches than one expects to see in a lifetime, countless new friends, each of us breaking our newer $150 boots, remnants of my $3 hat and gloves, PRICELESS!!!!

I have been very fortunate, to have had one tiny blister, to have slept and eaten well, to have not been sick at any time, to have had rich experiences, and to have had great company. I walked with a 79 year old Flemish woman walking in sandals because no shoes could contain her terrible bunions. I had to lance her blister the first night I met her. She hardly speaks any English so I point to her feet whenever I see her, she just shrugs as if to say, "What can I do, these are my only feet so I walk with them through rain, and mud, and snow." Simone says she is addicted to the Camino. It is her 15th and she is still walking.

I have read people's accounts of the Camino as a daily ritual of poor sleep, long mindless kilometers of walking, calorie packing dinners before collapsing to slumber only to wake up and do it over and over again, much like the movie 'Groundhog Day'. We have found ours to be beautiful. The miles keep getting easier and the hills more forgiving. The scenery is abundant and constantly changing. The birds speak to us and the wind whispers our song. The Camino is anything but boring. We are excited with each new town we end up in. We arrive, shower, and immediately do the last thing you'd expect-walk the whole town and enjoy it.

Everyone walks their own Camino. You get what you put into it. We have gotten our fair share and we love it.

Palas de Rei

I started out the day with my cold in full swing. It took about 8 kilometers of walking for me to feel better. It could be the first cafe con leche of the day that finally helped! Wonder what's going to happen when I get home and don't get either the walking or the delicious coffee to get me going in the morning!
Didn't take any photos today, but it was a day of walking through farm land and forests, very pleasant. Mom doesn't seem to be affected by her trio of blisters and Wig has been feeling great, I'm the slow poke of the group!
We just have 68 kilometers left...wow!

Portomarin

Woke up to snow covering our sky light, thought the weather was clearing as I stopped hearing the clatter of rain drops!
It was still another beautiful day, with just a little bit of rain, lots of cold wind and the occasional ray of sun!
There have been lots of big black slugs on the Camino, the whole way, I finally took a picture of one today. Wonder if they are pilgrims too. At least they make us feel fast!
We passed the marker for 100 kilometers left to get to Santiago, only a few more days.
The way is busier now. Lots of people just do the Camino from Sarria to Santiago, as its the minimum amount to do to be a real pilgrim! They all walk faster than us because they are fresh and excited. It's still fun. Wig has befriended a whole group of Americans on a luxury tour!

Sarria

My apologies for doing the blog yet again because Laura is tired. She thinks she is coming down with a cold. Poor girl, 24/7 with me for over 30 days now is just too much for her immune system to handle.
Todays journey involved an extra 6.5 km so we can avoid some uphills and downhills-NOT! It also included some sunshine, rain, wind, sleet and snow. With all the wardrobe changes, we felt like a one man Broadway act.
The longer route did take us over to Monasterio de Samos, one of the largest and oldest in Spain. To our dismay, we joined and paid money for a one hour tour in Spanish given by a local wanna be comedian monk who left all his Spanish understanding audience in stitches. I didn't even pretend to comprehend the guy because we were probably the topic of his jokes.
In any case, the bad weather took its toll on us. My $3 hat is trash after taking several flights in the wind, Laura is pooped with an aching knee and Nancy has added on a heel blister. To top things off, mom is staying at a 3 star hotel in the flat land with an elevator and a bath tub while Laura and I have an attic room on the 4th floor in a building where we have to climb over a hundred vertical steps just to get to where we can start climbing our 4 floors of narrow stairs. We would probably have an amazing view, except we don't have a window. On second thought, a third blister doesn't seem all that bad after all.
Dinner was far from disappointing as Laura and I had delicious rabbit and Nancy enjoyed her flattened boneless chicken. We are hoping to get better weather tomorrow in what looks like 23 km of ugly terrain. We have walked over 600 km and are on the final 100 km and hope to reach Santiago on Thursday, wish us luck.

Triacastella

Short 21 kilometer walk with downhill to the town of Triacastella began with thick morning fog. The author of our guidebook has definitely never walked the Camino. He describes today's walk as a short sustained downhill. All three of us certainly thought he was high on Galician weed when he wrote that description. We were thrown upon steep accents one after another to reach yet another alto before a somewhat cruel drop of 4 kilometers to our end town.
Congratulations to mom who is now a true pelegrino with two brand new blisters to add to her third day of walking the Camino. No dolor, no hay Gloria which translates to no pain, no glory. We were fortified partway down the hill with lasagna and callos con garbanzo (tripe with sausage and garbanzo. Dinner was paella with non remarkable lamb chops and delectable lengue (beef tongue) in such savory sauce that I wiped every drop of it with bread into my mouth. A visit to the pharmacy for some blister meds and a good night's rest should get mom set for our 25 km outing to a semi larger town of Sarria. I am in perigrino nirvana at the moment, full of energy with absolutely nothing aching but that can quickly change tomorrow.

O'Cebreira

Long day (10 hours) and 28 kilometers with 1200 meters of climbing. The last 8 kilometers was pure climbing. Nancy did great and got quite sunburned, most likely a photo sensitivity reaction with her med. My turn to feel good as I love to climb. This will be the biggest and longest climb of the trip.
Because of the ascent, we were constantly offered fantastic views of gorgeous landscape. Full mountains filled with purple heather and wild flowers abound next to constantly running cool rivers. Pictures show some of the fantastic local exercise equipment that we enjoy regularly.
At one time, I got the chance to run alongside twenty bulls within inches of me. No pictures were taken of this Pamplona tradition because I was ahead of Laura and her phone/camera. Okay they were all cows with udders but they all had horns.
O'Cebrero is a Gaelic mountain town reminiscent of Celtic lands much like Ireland with its small pastures with sheep, chickens and dogs running around town amid dimly lit taverns. We arrived with the skies clear and sunny with unending views surrounding us. Dinner awaited us with thick hot vegetable soup (caldo gallego) to provide inner warmth to a quickly freezing mountain air. Sleep awaits for the weary in anticipation to tomorrow's downhill.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Another beautiful day! Moms first day on the Camino, she seems to have survived despite a few spots of sunscreen failure.
We are walking through another wine region, so the rolling hills are covered with lots of old growth vines. I had a local bottle of wine with dinner and it was wonderful.
As we headed out for our usual evening stroll around the town we got too hot, so we found a big church to peek into. It was a fascinating old Romanesque structure. The ceiling was made of rocks. And it was nice and cool!
Resting up for a big climb tomorrow.

Ponferrada

Took less than a couple of hours to make it to this town. Definitely started too early as Laura did not get her cafe con leche and was not in the mood to deal with me.
We checked out the town and waited for Nancy, Laura's mom, to show up. They have a twelfth century castle in town and we visited it with her. It is Wednesday, another obscure holiday, and everything is closed-again. Well the castle visit today is free but all the good things in the castle worth seeing are off limits as well. Spain has an over abundance of holidays that no one seems to know or care about. I think they have more saints than any country in the world and it allows them unlimited holiday time and I should drink my cafe and not cry about it so much.

Molinaseca

Today we ascended to the highest point of our whole journey through the pass of Irago. The morning climb was fairly long and constant but nothing excessively steep and we enjoyed it. At the top was Cruz de Ferro, a Camino monument atop the highest point of our journey made up of a single iron cross atop a weathered pole. People add stones and other tokens of love, hope and blessing to the great pile. Laura placed her two stones and I inserted a rock that I have carried with me from California. It carries with it all our well wishes and love for our dear friend Bill Giachino for his full and complete recovery.
After a few more undulating hills where we were treated to amazing snow capped mountain sceneries, we started descending. And what a descent! Steep and never ending, for hours, and far beyond what we ascended the past few days. Laura was having a terrific day, allowing gravity to do her work. I suffered. My ankles rolled, my big and little toes complained, the soles of my feet burned, and my knees cussed at me.
Eventually, 27km ended in our town of Molinaseca. We quickly worked our way to the river, just below our hotel. Armed with our two legged chairs, some chocolate, tangerines, books and a bottle of wine, we soaked our sore ankles and feet in the cool water of the river. Then Laura took a long bath and I went back on the trail to greet and cheer our friends as they crawled into town.
Tonight we had a group dinner as well as a group walk and said our farewells to new found friends as Laura and I will be falling behind a bit as we meet her mom tomorrow in Ponferrada, only a 7.5 km walk away.

Casualties

Weather has been amazing for the last ten days or so and we can't really think of a better time to be here. That doesn't mean we haven't had our fair share of horizontal sleet, all day headwind or frigid temperatures early on.
Three people have died on our first week while crossing the Pyrenees. We have had people half sunk in deep mud and had to be pulled out of it sans footwear. One of the Australian woman had a bruised face after being blown off her feet by strong winds. There have been quite a few souls with ice packs on their legs after a losing bout with the ground. The Camino takes its toll but we continue on.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Today we left early to head towards the mountains. Nothing to steep and only 21.4 km. We are glad to be climbing as the views become fantastic. I play doctor to friends who have problems with aching feet, blisters and shin splints.
We end up in the mountain village of Rabanal, quiet and interesting. We attend evening mass by Benedictine monks sung in a Gregorian chant and Vespers. Great but not kind to Laura's feet as the standing portion was unusually long.
Pictures includes one of a pilgrim dressed up like a member of the knights Templar. He always seemed to walk by himself as other pilgrims may have thought him odd.

to Astorga

After arriving to a new town and having showered and change, we are always amazed that people say 'buen Camino' to us. How do they know that we are pilgrims? So, I start paying closer attention to pilgrims after they have discarded their backpacks and walking sticks. Pilgrims walk with what we call the Camino waddle, you never see them walk straight down steps, they are always taking it one step at a time, sideways. Pilgrims are always asking for the nearest location for food or the farmacia so they can quickly restock their supply of Compede and other blister medications. Now I understand why.
We started todays journey on a crisp frosty morning. A quick ten mile morning walk to the beautiful walled city of Astorga, gateway town to the mountains. We are back to the serene and beautiful paths of the Camino, through wooded oaks and away from roads and highways. We are back climbing hills and the air is wonderful and the views, spectacular.
Astorga was the chocolate capital of the world. It is here where they develop modern techniques to produce large quantities of it. Every 3rd shop is a chocolate store and they all sell the same kinds. We also toured the beautiful Gaudi Episcopal Palace and the large but disappointing cathedral. High point was actually catching a street play on one of the plazas. A bit confusing and went something like this. A witch was being burned on the stake, she morphs into a maiden. She is captured by soldiers but she escapes. She is chased and finally cornered, beaten up and bloodied, and hung by ropes until a knight rescues her. Kids watching were totally crying and traumatized, audience like us were just confused by the violence. The town is nevertheless beautiful.

Leon to Hospital de Orbigo 33km

Long slog today but the weather was fantastic. First half came by fast and the last 5 km always feels long. We walked the entire journey with Elizabeth from Australia and a very funny German we call Bernd. he is a retired Air Force pilot. Fighter pilots get full mandatory retirement at age 41 in Germany. Nearing town, we came up to Puente de Orbigo. Greatly preserved 13th century Roman bridge where a noble knight once had to defend the bridge against all comers for a month until the required 300 lances had been broken. This was a way to defend his honor as well when he was scorned by a beautiful lady. Since Laura did not scorn me, we went back to the bridge and had a lovely picnic overlooking an area where they have actual jousting.
Well, all we had was the name of the bed and breakfast w/o a street address. We got to town at siesta time and had problems finding anyone to point us in the right direction. Finally found a waiter who knew the place but can only speak Spanish. Spaniards are long winded people who like to repeat their dialogue. By the time he was on his 5th sentence , I had forgotten the last three. Anyway, we accidentally stumbled upon our place and what a beautiful place it is. Charming home with a nice garden and pond as well as a center courtyard. The owner was soooo nice in every possible way and she made us a home cooked meal of pasta soup and steak and potatoes that warmed our bodies and her goodness cheered our souls.

Leon

Beautiful town with beautiful surroundings. Enjoyed and learned much about building churches and its history. Our hostal room sits directly above a pastry and ice cream store, can't get any better than this. Meeting a lot of friends at 6pm for "fundador" at the Parador. I think fundador may be a brandy type drink that Hemingway used to have. i ordered two trays of various pastries from downstairs to share with everyone. Planning to head to our friend's gigantic suite afterwards for a few games of mafia and a final walk through a lighted Leon before waking back up as simple peregrinos tomorrow.

Leon

Wig here again. So, I have lost my favorite gloves, Laura's favorite gloves and my ten year old hat which never looked good anyway. I'm literally subconsciously lightening my load and Laura continues to replace them with cheaper and heavier items. We have given up on lightweight food and have started carrying canned liver pâté and sardines for variety instead of the cheese and jams with our bread.
Birds in Spain sing long and loud. We have been on the lookout for unusual sounds whenever we walk by ponds, turned out they are just regular frogs speaking Spanish. Spent yesterday in Mansillas de las Mullas and regrouping with old friends who took the alternate path the last few days.
Today we are headed to the town of Leon, beautiful ex-Roman military garrison that has beautiful cathedrals and plazas and paradores. We will, for the first time, hop on a bus to avoid the busy walk through city streets and have a bit more time on this hopefully beautiful city.
We have arrived in Leon. Staying in a hostal directly across the Plaza Marcos and beside the Parador where we can partake from our friend Simona who has a $500 suite. all I have to do is grab one of her bath towels and wear it and the world is my oyster. Heading out now, pics and comments to follow.

Mansilla de las Mulas

Food! One of the great things about walking all day is the joy of being hungry enough to eat lots of good food!
The pilgrims meals that most places have for all of us roving eating machines, are fun ways to sample different dishes. There are two courses, bread, wine and dessert. The other day I had a tasty red bean and chorizo soup for the first course. Wig loves the pasta or paella selections!
Talking about paella, in the town of Fromista, there was a paella feed going on during a festival. We went to check it out and found the paella cooking in a 7 foot pan over a wood fire. We got huge plates of the awesome chicken paella, with bread and wine, for one euro each! Yummy!
Today we had garbanzo bean soup and carne con arroz, and still had room to find a pastry shop and try a few sweets!